Call them “taquitos,” “rolled tacos,” “tacos dorado” or even “flautas,” they’re pretty much all variations on the same thing. They’re also pretty much all that’s on the menu at El Tianguis (2810 El Cajon Blvd., eattaquitos.com) in North Park. And that’s not a bad thing.
Regardless of name, the formula is well known: bits of savory filling—most often (but not always) beef or chicken—rolled in a corn tortilla into the shape of a flute. Taquitos, tacos dorado and flautas are fried (deep or shallow) to produce a crispy exterior. Rolled tacos are sometimes baked. The resulting dish may be less fatty and caloric but it’s invariably less tasty. So, why?