Names and labels can reveal, obscure or even do both at the same time. Tasty Noodle House (4646 Convoy St.) is something of a case in point. It is both tasty and a relatively typical Chinese “noodle house.” In other words, it pretty much is exactly what its name implies. Because … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: The benefits of Facing East in the Convoy District (or, how I remembered “Asian Fusion” wasn’t a curse)
There may be no words that strike fear into the hearts of food writers of a particular vintage quite like "Asian Fusion." Ming Tsai rocks and Jean-George Vongerichten is rightly a legend, but the crimes of a couple thousand copiers just cannot be forgotten. So when … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: The wow factor of Great Wow
Before I noticed the painted "wall" ringing the top of the dining room I thought it might just be a silly name. But was "Great Wow" really a politically incorrect pun on "Great Wall?" Had Trump already been elected and I just failed to notice? In fact, the Chinese characters … [Read more...]