With their first restaurant, TRUST in Hillcrest, owner Steve Schwob and chef Brad Wise created a special place that featured “dishes that are a cut above yet grounded, technical but unpretentious and both passionate and deeply satisfying,” as I wrote in 2016 when they first … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Morocco meets Mexico at Medina
Located just under the name on the façade of Medina (2850 El Cajon Blvd.) are the words “Moroccan Baja Kitchen.” That same billing is on the North Park eatery’s website and most articles about the restaurant describe how it “fuses the cuisines of Morocco and Baja.” It’s a … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Bone broth without the pseudoscience at Woomiok
Some time around the mid-2010s, bone broth really became a thing. Sure, it’s been around since at least the 1500s and it’s quite likely that even early humans put bones in a pot and boiled them. But a genuine American fad over good old-fashioned meat stock appears to have been … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Ly Heng reveals a Southeast Asian road less travelled
"Southeast Asian Cuisine” is one of those terms that seems to have more meaning than it actually does. No doubt it’s the food of lands that might be considered “Southeast Asian,” but that’s nearly tautological and reveals little about the foods. Ask 10 people and they probably … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: An omakase OMG at Kokoro Restaurant
The dish started with the familiar: a comforting crunch and a flavor not entirely unlike that of French fries. But that didn’t last long. As my teeth sank into the interior, I became lost. Was it meaty or crunchy? It wasn’t either, but rather somewhere in between. I couldn’t … [Read more...]
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