It's easy to rip on "fusion" cuisine. For every Wolfgang Puck, Ming Tsai or Jean-George Vongerichten there are dozens of chefs who lack the skill and grounding to use the genre's freedoms wisely. Instead, they take fusion as a license to commit innumerable, unspeakable and … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE — Best lunch in town, Part I: Wa Dining Okan
Dinner is the glory meal. From chef-driven restaurants to the family table of your childhood, when you think of a great meal, it's dinner you probably picture. Breakfast? It's "the most important meal of the day," right? But lunch? Itís the forgotten meal: utilitarian. I submit … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Unheralded barbecue at Sieu Sieu BBQ & Noodle House
Ask 10 people about the best barbecue in the world and you’ll probably get at least 11 answers. It’s likely that none of them will say China. There’s a word for that: ignorance. A harsh indictment? Perhaps. Reality? No doubt. One trip to Sieu Sieu BBQ and Noodle House at the … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Its owner’s focus back, Dumpling Inn excels again
There are only so many ways a review can go. There’s the long, slow, sloppy, wet kiss; the brutal takedown piece; the analytical, death-by-many-cuts; and the ever-popular “I’m an amazing writer, aren’t I?” There are more, but not many—this review is one of those others: the … [Read more...]