Located just under the name on the façade of Medina (2850 El Cajon Blvd.) are the words “Moroccan Baja Kitchen.” That same billing is on the North Park eatery’s website and most articles about the restaurant describe how it “fuses the cuisines of Morocco and Baja.” It’s a … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Ly Heng reveals a Southeast Asian road less travelled
"Southeast Asian Cuisine” is one of those terms that seems to have more meaning than it actually does. No doubt it’s the food of lands that might be considered “Southeast Asian,” but that’s nearly tautological and reveals little about the foods. Ask 10 people and they probably … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: At El Jardín, it’s about the food, not the TV chef
The greatest impediment to understanding some people—and even some restaurants—is figuring out which storyline to follow. Sometimes there are so many varying angles and storylines, one’s spoiled for choice. Pull on one string, one picture presents itself; pull on another, and an … [Read more...]
SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT: What it means when the Michelin Guide comes to San Diego
It began with a few conversations, almost hushed, amongst industry types. “Michelin inspectors have been spotted in L.A.” I first heard it from a local chef. Then again from a fellow food writer. Before long the rumors were everywhere. It made no sense: The Michelin Guide … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Surprising subtlety at Taste of Hunan
When the massive mortar of smashed eggplant and green chili pepper, along with preserved eggs, arrived at the table, I realized it was a bit of a metaphor for Taste of Hunan as a whole. Sure, the oversized mortar is one thing, but there’s also the tableside show of the staff … [Read more...]
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