Located just under the name on the façade of Medina (2850 El Cajon Blvd.) are the words “Moroccan Baja Kitchen.” That same billing is on the North Park eatery’s website and most articles about the restaurant describe how it “fuses the cuisines of Morocco and Baja.” It’s a … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: At El Jardín, it’s about the food, not the TV chef
The greatest impediment to understanding some people—and even some restaurants—is figuring out which storyline to follow. Sometimes there are so many varying angles and storylines, one’s spoiled for choice. Pull on one string, one picture presents itself; pull on another, and an … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Pasta without pretension at Monzù
Italian restaurants in San Diego have tended to fall into one of three categories: 1.) American-Italian joints with cheap red sauce and bad pizza; 2.) middle-of-the-road copycat spots (think early ’90s Gaslamp or Little Italy a decade later), or; 3.) stuffy, pretentious and often … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Surprising subtlety at Taste of Hunan
When the massive mortar of smashed eggplant and green chili pepper, along with preserved eggs, arrived at the table, I realized it was a bit of a metaphor for Taste of Hunan as a whole. Sure, the oversized mortar is one thing, but there’s also the tableside show of the staff … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Come for the Peking duck, stay for the offal
It never occurred to me that Peking duck could be a loss leader. But maybe that’s the best way to understand Yummy House (4633 Convoy St., Ste. 102); use a famously upscale dish to draw in customers and get them back for Yummy House’s less legendary, but equally good … [Read more...]
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