The toasted ground rice in the pork larb was the first hint that there was something different about Shelter Island's Supannee House of Thai. Too often, that ground rice is a perfunctory presence in larb (ground meat in lime juice, fish sauce, herbs and spices), more an … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Sab-e-Lee is much more than the sum of its heat
Tuscan cuisine is different than Sicilian—we know that much. Normandy's food is unlike Provence's—we know that, too. So, why do we seem to assume that there is only one "Thai cuisine"? Why does a single word—"hot"—come to mind when someone wants to go out for Thai? Thai food is a … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Spicy Papaya Salad with Grilled Beef
Following our recent trip to Andy Ricker's Pok Pok restaurant in Portland I just had to try to make one of his signature dishes, Papaya Pok Pok, a spicy salad built around green (unripe) papaya and a spicy dressing featuring Thai Bird chiles, lime and fish sauce (with an … [Read more...]
SAN DIEGO RESTAURANT REVIEW: Sab-E-Lee
As I have documented ad naseum on this site, I love Asian food. I have reviewed restaurants and food trucks serving Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and Pan-Asian food. I have written articles on many different Asian cuisines. But only once, barely, have I touched on Thai food. And … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Grilled Chicken Livers with Cilantro-Lemon Sauce
Don't be afraid of Offal! The flavors can be luxurious and exotic. This classic example of Thai-style street food is a great example. Ingredients For the Chicken Liver Skewers: 1 pound chicken livers, trimmed Kosher salt and freshly ground black … [Read more...]