For years, Chinese food in San Diego meant different versions of watered-down Cantonese and the sort of Americanized “Chinese” one might expect from a late-night delivery place in New York. Sichuan? Not so much. Hunan? No. Shaanxi? Not on your life.
Today, though, things seem different with restaurants tagged with labels from each of those regions. Appearances, though, can be deceiving as Szechuan Chef (4344 Convoy St.) demonstrates.