Heavy sits the yoke of expectations. Just ask a tiger mom’s child or a first-round draft pick. Or you might have asked Javier Plascencia before the opening of Bracero Cocina de Raiz (1490 Kettner Blvd.) in Little Italy, easily the most celebrated restaurant opening of the year.
It was not Plascencia’s first San Diego-area restaurant; he’d opened Romesco in 2005. But that was then—before the New York Times and New Yorker articles, before TV appearances on No Reservations and The Taste. It was before Plascencia became the face of the new Baja cuisine (aka “BajaMed”). Now the stakes were higher, and with Bracero Plascencia doubled down. It seems to have been a good bet.