The restaurant business is notoriously fickle. Today’s empire can quickly become tomorrow’s smoking pile of rubble. And you may not even get a t-shirt to show for it (though you might just get a large tax deduction). Brian Malarkey knows this. He’s lived it. As documented in this space previously, his “Fabric of Social Dining” empire (Burlap, Searsucker, etc.) collapsed around him. And that makes Herb & Wood (2210 Kettner Boulevard) all the more impressive.