Sabina Bandera was about to come in from the cold. It was May 28, 2012, the night Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations Baja episode aired. She was about to become famous, even if Bandera didn’t know it yet. Bourdain’s discerning taste and huge megaphone accomplished what 42 years of slinging unimaginably brilliant mariscos from the corner of Alvarado and 1st in Ensenada had never quite achieved. Sabina’s Restaurante, across the street from her still-bustling old cart, is the result.