The fires on the Cuyahoga River have long since been put out. Not, mind you, before they burned through Cleveland’s psyche and economy, leaving behind a shell of a once-great city with little in the way of hope, and a nation only too happy to laugh about its downfall. What had left — the Browns, the economy — has in time returned. But living on its own plane through it all has been the city’s food. Good food — really good food.