The dish started with the familiar: a comforting crunch and a flavor not entirely unlike that of French fries. But that didn’t last long. As my teeth sank into the interior, I became lost. Was it meaty or crunchy? It wasn’t either, but rather somewhere in between. I couldn’t … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: At Little Sakana, how much pre-cut sushi is too much?
When I heard the new all-you-can-eat sushi spot, Little Sakana Sushi Bar & Grill (8270-E Mira Mesa Blvd.), was landing in Mira Mesa, I knew I had to go. There has always been a collision between my firm conviction that there’s no such thing as good, cheap sushi and my guilty … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: At El Jardín, it’s about the food, not the TV chef
The greatest impediment to understanding some people—and even some restaurants—is figuring out which storyline to follow. Sometimes there are so many varying angles and storylines, one’s spoiled for choice. Pull on one string, one picture presents itself; pull on another, and an … [Read more...]
SAN DIEGO CITYBEAT: What it means when the Michelin Guide comes to San Diego
It began with a few conversations, almost hushed, amongst industry types. “Michelin inspectors have been spotted in L.A.” I first heard it from a local chef. Then again from a fellow food writer. Before long the rumors were everywhere. It made no sense: The Michelin Guide … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Astral projecting nuns mashed up with the Velvets at Sister Ray’s
It’s a legend that sounds like the basis for a religion or, at the very least, a very cool rock song: an astral projecting nun, who spent her entire life in a Spanish convent, was the first to record the recipe for chili. According to the legend, native women in America’s … [Read more...]
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