The dish started with the familiar: a comforting crunch and a flavor not entirely unlike that of French fries. But that didn’t last long. As my teeth sank into the interior, I became lost. Was it meaty or crunchy? It wasn’t either, but rather somewhere in between. I couldn’t … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Surprising sushi in a Tijuana speakeasy
Finding good food in Tijuana is neither difficult nor surprising. Caesar salad? It was invented there. Tacos? Uh, yeah. TJ’s one of the best taco towns anywhere. High-end sushi? Eh, maybe some mariscosor some cheap Sinaloan “sushi,” but up until last month—when Chef Pedro Velardo … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Himitsu is the perfect sushi bar for La Jolla
The search for the sushi bar with the freshest fish is an endless one. It’s also, perhaps surprisingly, a counterproductive one. The best sushi isn’t always the freshest. In fact, it never is. Many of us just didn’t know. One great place to learn that is Himitsu (1030-G Torrey … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Fast food transformed to art at Sushi Tadokoro
Sushi is often treated as either high art or commoditized fast food. Aficionados celebrate the uber-expensive omakase tasting menus of places like Urasawa in Beverly Hills even as a businesswoman grabs uber-cheap supermarket sushi on her way home from the office. No doubt high … [Read more...]