French cuisine seems, at first blush, a long way from kosher cuisine. Butter never seems very far from the meat, and both pork and shellfish feature prominently. Nowhere, perhaps, does French cuisine seem likely to be less kosher than when it comes to … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Vietnamese Jewish Penicillin – Phở Ga
It is not for nothing Chicken Noodle Soup is called “Jewish Penicillin.” It is, perhaps, the prototypical “Jewish” food. Whether there is actually something medicinal about the stuff, it’s purely psychosomatic or it is just the comfort food factor is quite beside the point. It … [Read more...]
The Beautiful Bastard Stepchild of Ceviche & Sashimi: Tiradito of Escolar with Roasted Beet and Corn
I might not have put Peruvian cuisine on my short list of the world’s great cuisines; at least not until I looked at the closest thing there is to on official list of such things: The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Three of The World’s 50 Best are in Lima: Central … [Read more...]
RECIPE: New San Diego Fish Tacos Old-Style — Whole Salt Baked Sheepshead Tacos with Guacamole and Jalapeño Mayonnaise
When many think of food and San Diego it is the fish taco that first comes to mind. That’s odd considering that what we know as the fish taco originated south, not north, of the border. The real reason they tend to be associated with San Diego is the fact they were popularized in … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Modernist Matzo Balls (Tomato Matzo Ball Soup with Pickled Garlic Chives)
Modernist cuisine—sometimes called “modern gastronomy” or “molecular gastronomy”—is, to say the least, controversial. While its most ardent enthusiasts call it magic in the kitchen and observe chefs creating dishes in this discipline must create at another level, technical and … [Read more...]