It’s well settled fish tacos neither originated in San Diego nor emerged from Ralph Rubio’s head like Athena from Zeus’. Nor is it likely they originated in San Felipe where Rubio found them on a 1974 Spring Break trip. The truth of their origin is somewhat South of San Diego and … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Finding the flavor of Ensenada at Mercado Los Globos
There may be no surer way to take a city’s temperature—and find its flavor—then at its public market. A trip through Barcelona’s La Boqueria or Paris’ Marché Rungis gives you a sense of each city. The color, low-key chaos and culinary gems in Tijuana’s Mercado Hidalgo do the … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Beyond Bourdain at Sabina’s Restaurante
Sabina Bandera was about to come in from the cold. It was May 28, 2012, the night Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations Baja episode aired. She was about to become famous, even if Bandera didn’t know it yet. Bourdain’s discerning taste and huge megaphone accomplished what 42 years … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Ride the railroad at El Ferrocarril
Its name translates as "The Railroad" though there's no rail line in the vicinity and likely never was. Googling the place is futile, so you wonder whether it really exists. But the lamb tacos and broth served at El Ferrocarril (Calle Rio Seco 179 at the corner of Calle Once) in … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Fine-dining picnic at Deckman’s
Javier Plascencia may be the face of BajaMed cuisine and Miguel Angel Guerrero may own the trademark. Benito Molino definitely has the best moustache. But Drew Deckman of Deckman’s en El Mogor (Km. 85.5 Highway 3 Tecate-Ensenada, San Antonio De Las Minas, B.C.) is the only … [Read more...]