French cuisine seems, at first blush, a long way from kosher cuisine. Butter never seems very far from the meat, and both pork and shellfish feature prominently. Nowhere, perhaps, does French cuisine seem likely to be less kosher than when it comes to … [Read more...]
It’s not Chopped: Risotto of Mushrooms, Peas and Tomato Confit
For at least one full generation, American views on food – particularly “good” food – have been shaped by Food Network. From Emeril Live and Iron Chef America to Chopped, our ideas of how to cook and our culinary aspirations have been captured by these shows, their catch-phrases … [Read more...]
The Beautiful Bastard Stepchild of Ceviche & Sashimi: Tiradito of Escolar with Roasted Beet and Corn
I might not have put Peruvian cuisine on my short list of the world’s great cuisines; at least not until I looked at the closest thing there is to on official list of such things: The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Three of The World’s 50 Best are in Lima: Central … [Read more...]
RECIPE: New San Diego Fish Tacos Old-Style — Whole Salt Baked Sheepshead Tacos with Guacamole and Jalapeño Mayonnaise
When many think of food and San Diego it is the fish taco that first comes to mind. That’s odd considering that what we know as the fish taco originated south, not north, of the border. The real reason they tend to be associated with San Diego is the fact they were popularized in … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Modernist Matzo Balls (Tomato Matzo Ball Soup with Pickled Garlic Chives)
Modernist cuisine—sometimes called “modern gastronomy” or “molecular gastronomy”—is, to say the least, controversial. While its most ardent enthusiasts call it magic in the kitchen and observe chefs creating dishes in this discipline must create at another level, technical and … [Read more...]
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