About a month ago I wrote in this space that San Diego tacos suck and “the problem isn’t them, it’s us.” We’re getting the tacos we deserve, the ones we’ve asked for. It didn’t take long for me to be informed of the error of my ways. “You’ve got to be kidding me,” opined one … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Making Russian Food Great Again
It once seemed cool to like Russian cuisine in a sort of ironic, vaguely countercultural sort of way. It may now be mandatory to like Russian cuisine in a sort of fascistic, vaguely homoerotic sort of way. Sad. Fortunately, Pomegranate Restaurant (2312 El Cajon Blvd.) in North … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Passion boils over at Boiling Passion
The idea of the boiling communal cauldron as cooking vessel is only as new as humans. It is also international. From Chinese "hotpot," to Japanese nabemono dishes and Singapore "steamboat" all the way to Swiss fondue, the idea of cooking meat in a boiling cauldron is ancient and … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: The big flavors of Peru at Café Secret
It is Peru's time to shine on the culinary stage. Three Lima restaurants—Central, Maido and Astrid y Gastón—are on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list (only five in the United States are there). The food at these restaurants applies Peru's diverse cultural influences to its … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: You know it when you see it at Aqui es Texcoco
In his concurring opinion in Jacobellis v. Ohio, 378 U.S. 184 (1964)—one of the most famous in Supreme Court history—Justice Potter Stewart said of hardcore pornography: "I know it when I see it." He might as well have been talking about "authenticity" and Mexican food. My most … [Read more...]
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