Some think the word “Offal” is misspelled. Not me. I look for opportunities to eat the parts of a beast that are not the common – and popular and expensive -- muscle groups: the internal organs and the like. First, they taste good. Often they are the most flavorful bits of … [Read more...]
SLOW FOOD: Braised Short Ribs with Winter Vegetables
My culinary career, such as it ever was or is, began with a gig flipping hamburgers at Jack in the Box. I remember fondly playing Frisbee with the frozen hamburger disks in the parking lot behind the “restaurant,” deftly dodging the dumpster and cars to make catches. I learned … [Read more...]
MOTHER’S DAY: Chawan Mushi (and Sushi)
Every family has its points of contention. For our family, Mother’s Day was an annual conflagration-in-waiting. My wife hated the notion of Mother’s Day Brunch on numerous grounds ranging from the culinary to the socio-political. My mother and sister had their own ideas that … [Read more...]
MORRO BAY: Steamed Sea Bass with Tomato Confit
For about a decade my parents had a house on the shore at Morro Bay, a small hamlet on California’s Central Coast, approximately half way between San Francisco and Los Angeles. A six hour drive from San Diego by car, in some other ways Morro Bay was considerably further … [Read more...]
NOUVELLE CUISINE: Terrine of Celeriac, Carrots and Gai Lan with Sauce Ravigotte
“Nouvelle cuisine was so specifically French that it was, and still is, misunderstood in the rest of the world. You have to be dominated by Escoffier before rejecting him becomes meaningful.” Mark Kurlansky, “Choice Cuts” (2002) "Nouvelle cuisine was nothing on the plate, but … [Read more...]
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