If there’s a more certain sign a restaurant won’t be great than a long menu, I haven’t found it. The opposite may not be equally true—a short menu doesn’t assure greatness—but it increases the odds that back-of-house staff will execute all menu items well and the ingredients will … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Character and perfection at Nine-Ten
Increasingly, it seems, top restaurants in Los Angeles and London, New York and New Dehli, San Sebastian and São Paulo look the same, feel the same and have even begun to taste the same. The internet brought ease of access to information and images but also a convergence among … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Drowning in torta goodness at El Gallito
Just about anything taken to its logical extreme falls apart. The torta ahogadas (“drowned tortas”) of Guadalajara are an example of that. They take the Mexican torta to its logical extreme, and they certainly fall apart. However, there is definitely nothing wrong with that. In … [Read more...]
NEWS: SDF&T’s Michael Gardiner to do Ceviche Wednesday
For a year and a half Chef Flor Franco has been hosting Ceviche's Wednesdays. For the first year they were held at the late-lamented Sirena Cocina in Little Italy. For the first part of this second season they were held at Isabel's Cantina in Pacific Beach. As of next week … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: Roast is who they are and roast is what they do
I’m a sucker for a place that does one thing and does it well. It’s a testament to a virtue, increasingly lost of late, that competence matters and in having the courage of one’s convictions. Roast Meat & Sandwich Shop (2820 Historic Decatur Road) at the Liberty Public Market … [Read more...]
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