Modernist cuisine—sometimes called “modern gastronomy” or “molecular gastronomy”—is, to say the least, controversial. While its most ardent enthusiasts call it magic in the kitchen and observe chefs creating dishes in this discipline must create at another level, technical and … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Lamb Chop with Beet, Turnip, Green Garbanzos and Sweet Pea-Mint Jus
If duck isn't my favorite meat, lamb is. Perhaps because they are both products of the spring, lamb and sweet peas have a natural affinity. Lamb and mint, on the one hand, and mint and peas, on the other hand, are similarly natural affinities. The other defining ingredient … [Read more...]
RECIPE: Pressed Lamb Shank “Birria” | Roast Garlic Puree | Brown Beech Mushrooms | Fried Cilantro
I have written about birria often (e.g. http://sdfoodtravel.com/badass-kosher-jewish-mexico-its-not-an-oxymoron/). There is no single classic Mexican dish that has more captured my imagination. It is a dish that is nearly ubiquitous at roadside stands and restaurants throughout … [Read more...]
BADASS KOSHER: “They tried to destroy us, we survived, let’s eat!”
It is a myth grounded in reality: if you ask 10 Jews their opinion, you get 11 answers. And it is not all wrong. Oddly though, if you ask 10 Jews what they eat for Chanukah, 10 will tell you “latkes;” maybe 11. They tried to destroy us, we survived, let’s eat latkes. Chanukah, … [Read more...]
Nothing Succeeds Like Excess: Heavenly Hog Fall Pig Out
It may be more central to America’s self image than the notion of “American Exceptionalism” itself: nothing succeeds more than excess. Of course, when you go to a dinner called the “Heavenly Hog Fall Pig Out” restraint is one item that is not likely to be found on the menu. And, … [Read more...]