Italian food is simple food, and that’s by no means an insult. Italian fare is all about good ingredients prepared with skill and caring. It’s just as much about balance and patience as it is about time and elegance. That is what is offered up at Little Italy’s Civico 1845 (1845 … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: I’ll have what she’s having, Italian style at Mona Lisa
Say “deli” and minds often turn to the classic New York Jewish-style greats. Think Katz’s overstuffed sandwiches, When Harry Met Sally, Meg Ryan and “I’ll have what she’s having.” But there are other types of classic deli. Italian for instance, and in Mona Lisa Italian … [Read more...]
It’s not Chopped: Risotto of Mushrooms, Peas and Tomato Confit
For at least one full generation, American views on food – particularly “good” food – have been shaped by Food Network. From Emeril Live and Iron Chef America to Chopped, our ideas of how to cook and our culinary aspirations have been captured by these shows, their catch-phrases … [Read more...]
EATER SAN DIEGO YEAR END WRAP-UP, Part 4: Food Media On The Saddest Restaurant Closures of 2016
Part 4 of Eater San Diego’s year end restaurant wrap-up asks local food media to identify the saddest restaurant closures of 2016: http://sandiego.eater.com/2016/12/28/14106328/san-diego-saddest-restaurant-closure-of-2016 My answer: "One of the first restaurant closings … [Read more...]
WORLD FARE: The benefits of Facing East in the Convoy District (or, how I remembered “Asian Fusion” wasn’t a curse)
There may be no words that strike fear into the hearts of food writers of a particular vintage quite like "Asian Fusion." Ming Tsai rocks and Jean-George Vongerichten is rightly a legend, but the crimes of a couple thousand copiers just cannot be forgotten. So when … [Read more...]
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