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WORLD FARE: Emerald Seafood Restaurant is a Convoy District gem

Posted on November 19, 2014 by a

Cart service 2

 

The downside of getting paid to eat (and write about it) is not having enough time to enjoy favorite haunts on as regular a basis as I would like. Instead of weekly weekend brunches of dim sum—that parade of steamer baskets filled with bite-sized portions of a seemingly infinite variety of Chinese flavors—I’ve found myself searching for cool new spots instead. It’s great, but I miss my old favorites. But, then, why haven’t I reviewed the dim sum at Emerald Seafood Restaurant (3709 Convoy St.) in Kearny Mesa’s Convoy District? Do I require an engraved invitation?

For more see:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13618-emerald-seafood-restaurant-is-a-convoy-district-gem.html

WORLD FARE: Baja food laid bare at Común Kitchen & Tavern

Posted on November 12, 2014 by a

Fried brussels sprout Caeser

The most exciting development on the San Diego food scene is the ongoing Baja invasion—a distinct, high-end cuisine known as “BajaMed” and the influence of an equally exciting brand of street food. While several chefs have incorporated some of these influences, none has proved as creative with the full range as Chad White. All are on display at White’s new East Village restaurant, Común Kitchen & Tavern (925 J St.).

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13597-baja-food-laid-bare-at-com%EF%BF%BDn-kitchen-tavern.html

WORLD FARE: Supannee offers farm-to-table Thai in Point Loma

Posted on November 5, 2014 by a

True Cod sauteed with fresh garlic and chili sauce

The toasted ground rice in the pork larb was the first hint that there was something different about Shelter Island’s Supannee House of Thai. Too often, that ground rice is a perfunctory presence in larb (ground meat in lime juice, fish sauce, herbs and spices), more an ill-understood recipe requisite than a layer of flavor. At Supannee, it was the key to the dish, providing textural contrast and a deep, earthy, smoky taste.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13575-supannee-offers-farm-to-table-thai-in-point-loma.html

WORLD FARE: With a name like Wrench and Rodent, it’s gotta be good

Posted on October 29, 2014 by a

Korean bbq local yellowtail with green beans and bacon -- yes, bacon

The importance of first impressions is the stuff of advertising slogans and books about business motivation and self-improvement. Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub is the exception that proves that rule. “Rodents” hardly sound appetizing and “wrenches” play no meaningful role in high-end cuisine, but Davin Waite’s food at this Oceanside hole-in-the-wall (1815 S. Coast Hwy.) not only pleases; it astonishes.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13554-with-a-name-like-wrench-and-rodent-its-gotta-be-good.html

WORLD FARE: Street tacos don’t get better than Tacos Kokopelli

Posted on October 15, 2014 by a

Yes, those ARE grasshoppers

I have previously sung the glories of Mexican street food. But Mexican street food isn’t limited to brilliantly flavorful versions of traditional antijitos. It’s not all down-and-dirty stuff you might see on Bizarre Foods, with its implicit (if somewhat patronizing) suggestion of “indigenousness.” Mexican street food is something of a culinary laboratory.

If, as Anthony Bourdain claimed, Ensenada’s Mariscos La Guerrerense is “the best street cart in the world,” then perhaps Tacos Kokopelli (Calle Ocampo at Blvd. Agua Caliente) is the best street cart in Tijuana.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13494-street-tacos-dont-get-better-than-tacos-kokopelli.html

WORLD FARE: Kurt Metzger is keeping food real at Kitchen 4140

Posted on October 8, 2014 by a

Beer-braised​ beef short rib sandwich

Words have meaning, but overuse can lessen their impact. Take, for example, the term “farm-to-table.” Originally inspired by Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, it connotes a series of ideas about shortening the chain from farm to chef to stove to table. It’s supposedly about organic produce, natural meats, seasonal menus and simple food that’s simply prepared.

But somewhere along the line, “farm-to-table” became less Alice Waters and more a marketing slogan. 

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13475-kurt-metzger-is-keeping-food-real-at-kitchen-4140.html

WORLD FARE: Precisely layered textures and flavors at Mariscos La Guerrerense

Posted on October 1, 2014 by a

Sabina Bandera 2

Anthony Bourdain, an authority on street food, called Sabina Bandera’s Mariscos La Guerrerense in Ensenada “the best street cart in the world.” Bourdain is not alone. One of America’s foremost Mexican (and TV) chefs, Rick Bayless, described it as “one of the best places to eat in Mexico.” A legion of food bloggers agrees. What are they on about?

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13452-precisely-layered-textures-and-flavors-at-mariscos-la-guerrerense.html

WORLD FARE: Market Restaurant offers eclectic, elegant simplicity

Posted on September 24, 2014 by a

Alaskan troll King Salmon and lobster-prawn tortellini

At the heart of nearly all great high-end cooking—regardless of cuisine, culture or style—is simplicity. It may seem somewhat counterintuitive: Elaborate dishes, exotic preparations, luxury ingredients and ultra-modernist techniques = simple? And yet, restaurants like Jean-Georges in New York, Alinea in Chicago and Alma in Los Angeles have one thing in common: simplicity.

And Chef Carl Schroeder’s food at Market Restaurant + Bar (3702 Via de la Valle in Del Mar) bears the same mark of simplicity.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13427-market-restaurant-offers-eclectic-elegant-simplicity.html

NIBBLES BLOG: Liberty Public Market to open next summer

Posted on September 18, 2014 by a

Liberty Market Conceptual Presentation 8.22.14.indd

Last week, the San Diego Public Market—a Kickstarter-driven effort by Catt White and Dale Steele, best known for their Little Italy Mercato—announced it was officially done, leaving locals to mourn what was supposed to be San Diego’s answer to the great public food markets of North America and Europe. Now comes news of a new public market effort at Liberty Station, immediately adjacent to the Stone Brewing space.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/blog-1656-liberty-public-market-to-open-next-summer.html

WORLD FARE: The Cheesesteak Whizardry of Gaglione Brothers

Posted on September 17, 2014 by a

Cheesestake after visit to condiment bar

There’s likely no sandwich anywhere that’s more thoroughly tied to a particular locale than the cheesesteak is to Philadelphia. Chicago has its Italian beef sandwiches, Miami its Cubano, New Orleans the Muffaletta and New England its lobster rolls. But regardless of where you happen to be, it’s always a “Philly cheesesteak.”

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13406-the-cheesesteak-whizardry-of-gaglione-brothers.html