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WORLD FARE: Get your goat at El Rincon del Oso in Tijuana

Posted on December 19, 2014 by a

Menudo Rojo

As we in San Diego mount our second major effort in two years to establish a permanent public market, Tijuana already has a world-class example: the Mercado Miguel Hidalgo de Tijuana (Blvd. Sanchez Taboada and Ave. Independencia Tijuana Zona Rio)….Perhaps the best of Mercado Hidalgo’s restaurants is El Rincon del Oso, home of a dish that was recently named Chowzter’s “Tastiest Soup in Latin America 2014” (nominated by San Diegan Scott Koenig).

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13705-get-your-goat-at-el-rincon-del-oso-in-tijuana.html

WORLD FARE: Its owner’s focus back, Dumpling Inn excels again

Posted on December 11, 2014 by a

Potstickers do not get better than these

There are only so many ways a review can go. There’s the long, slow, sloppy, wet kiss; the brutal takedown piece; the analytical, death-by-many-cuts; and the ever-popular “I’m an amazing writer, aren’t I?” There are more, but not many—this review is one of those others: the reconsideration after they let the air out of the balloon.

Once upon a time, Dumpling Inn was a cult Chinese spot hiding in a troubled strip mall (4619 Convoy St.) around the corner from Jasmine Restaurant, one of San Diego’s great dim sum palaces.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13682-its-owners-focus-back-dumpling-inn-excels-again.html

WORLD FARE: Paul Dobson and Martin San Roman bring Dobson’s to new heights

Posted on December 3, 2014 by a

Roast swordfish over mashed potatoes with sauteed cucumbers and orange beurre blanc

While Dobson’s (956 Broadway Circle, Downtown) was once at the top of a very short list of best restaurants in town, by the mid-’90s it was better known as the power-lunch spot. Hit particularly hard by the 2008 economic downturn, Dobson sold his ownership stake earlier this year but maintained his old role.

In walked Chef Martin San Roman…

Read more at http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13660-paul-dobson-and-martin-san-roman-bring-dobsons-to-new-heights.html

WORLD FARE: Have rolls your way at Downtown’s Sushi Freak

Posted on November 26, 2014 by a

This critic's rolls

A supposedly knowledgeable source informs me that my headstone will someday read: “Everyone’s a critic. Here lies another one.”

The sentiment behind that, in this age of Yelp, might explain Sushi Freak, the new Downtown create-your-own-sushi-roll spot. It is, after all, hard to criticize the chef’s artistry in putting together sushi rolls when you made the choices yourself.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13640-have-rolls-your-way-at-downtowns-sushi-freak.html

WORLD FARE: Emerald Seafood Restaurant is a Convoy District gem

Posted on November 19, 2014 by a

Cart service 2

 

The downside of getting paid to eat (and write about it) is not having enough time to enjoy favorite haunts on as regular a basis as I would like. Instead of weekly weekend brunches of dim sum—that parade of steamer baskets filled with bite-sized portions of a seemingly infinite variety of Chinese flavors—I’ve found myself searching for cool new spots instead. It’s great, but I miss my old favorites. But, then, why haven’t I reviewed the dim sum at Emerald Seafood Restaurant (3709 Convoy St.) in Kearny Mesa’s Convoy District? Do I require an engraved invitation?

For more see:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13618-emerald-seafood-restaurant-is-a-convoy-district-gem.html

WORLD FARE: Baja food laid bare at Común Kitchen & Tavern

Posted on November 12, 2014 by a

Fried brussels sprout Caeser

The most exciting development on the San Diego food scene is the ongoing Baja invasion—a distinct, high-end cuisine known as “BajaMed” and the influence of an equally exciting brand of street food. While several chefs have incorporated some of these influences, none has proved as creative with the full range as Chad White. All are on display at White’s new East Village restaurant, Común Kitchen & Tavern (925 J St.).

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13597-baja-food-laid-bare-at-com%EF%BF%BDn-kitchen-tavern.html

WORLD FARE: Supannee offers farm-to-table Thai in Point Loma

Posted on November 5, 2014 by a

True Cod sauteed with fresh garlic and chili sauce

The toasted ground rice in the pork larb was the first hint that there was something different about Shelter Island’s Supannee House of Thai. Too often, that ground rice is a perfunctory presence in larb (ground meat in lime juice, fish sauce, herbs and spices), more an ill-understood recipe requisite than a layer of flavor. At Supannee, it was the key to the dish, providing textural contrast and a deep, earthy, smoky taste.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13575-supannee-offers-farm-to-table-thai-in-point-loma.html

WORLD FARE: With a name like Wrench and Rodent, it’s gotta be good

Posted on October 29, 2014 by a

Korean bbq local yellowtail with green beans and bacon -- yes, bacon

The importance of first impressions is the stuff of advertising slogans and books about business motivation and self-improvement. Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub is the exception that proves that rule. “Rodents” hardly sound appetizing and “wrenches” play no meaningful role in high-end cuisine, but Davin Waite’s food at this Oceanside hole-in-the-wall (1815 S. Coast Hwy.) not only pleases; it astonishes.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13554-with-a-name-like-wrench-and-rodent-its-gotta-be-good.html

WORLD FARE: Street tacos don’t get better than Tacos Kokopelli

Posted on October 15, 2014 by a

Yes, those ARE grasshoppers

I have previously sung the glories of Mexican street food. But Mexican street food isn’t limited to brilliantly flavorful versions of traditional antijitos. It’s not all down-and-dirty stuff you might see on Bizarre Foods, with its implicit (if somewhat patronizing) suggestion of “indigenousness.” Mexican street food is something of a culinary laboratory.

If, as Anthony Bourdain claimed, Ensenada’s Mariscos La Guerrerense is “the best street cart in the world,” then perhaps Tacos Kokopelli (Calle Ocampo at Blvd. Agua Caliente) is the best street cart in Tijuana.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13494-street-tacos-dont-get-better-than-tacos-kokopelli.html

WORLD FARE: Kurt Metzger is keeping food real at Kitchen 4140

Posted on October 8, 2014 by a

Beer-braised​ beef short rib sandwich

Words have meaning, but overuse can lessen their impact. Take, for example, the term “farm-to-table.” Originally inspired by Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, it connotes a series of ideas about shortening the chain from farm to chef to stove to table. It’s supposedly about organic produce, natural meats, seasonal menus and simple food that’s simply prepared.

But somewhere along the line, “farm-to-table” became less Alice Waters and more a marketing slogan. 

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13475-kurt-metzger-is-keeping-food-real-at-kitchen-4140.html