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WORLD FARE: Best Sandwich on the Planet, Part 4: Sogno di Vino

Posted on August 21, 2014 by a

Muffaletta panini

There seems to be an unholy synergy between sandwiches and faddism. Throw some Asian-inspired pickles along with just about anything else inside a baguette, call it a “banh mi” and watch it fly out the food-truck window. Do it with pork belly and charge another couple bucks. A few years ago, it was bacon. Before that, it was grilled cheese.

But before this recent parade of sandwich fads, there was the panini…

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13316-best-sandwich-on-the-planet-part-4-sogno-di-vino.html

WORLD FARE: Ironside looks more ambitious than it tastes

Posted on August 13, 2014 by a

Wall o' piranhas

Little Italy’s Ironside Fish & Oyster was one of San Diego’s most eagerly anticipated restaurant openings of 2014, bringing together the cool factor of owners Consortium Holdings (Noble Experiment, Polite Provisions, Craft & Commerce), the cuisine of two-star Michelin Chef Jason McLeod, a raw-bar concept and a design by Paul Basile. A “can’t miss” project, it made it only half way.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13293-ironside-looks-more-ambitious-than-it-tastes.html

WORLD FARE: Sense of surprise at Ramen Izakaya Ouan

Posted on August 6, 2014 by a

Beef tongue steak

One way to think about an izakaya is as a Japanese gastropub. Another may be as the Japanese version of tapas bars. Hillcrest’s Ramen Izakaya Ouan (3882 Fourth Ave.) is perhaps best understood in that latter vein.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13273-sense-of-surprise-at-ramen-izakaya-ouan.html

WORLD FARE: Deep dish is the specialty at Chicago Brothers Pizzeria

Posted on July 30, 2014 by a

Meat Lover's Deep Dish Pie 2

On Feb. 14, U.S. Supreme Court Justice Antonin Scalia ruled that Chicago-style deep-dish pizza “shouldn’t be called pizza.” Perhaps aware of the potentially volatile reaction to his declaration, Scalia later sought to dial it back a bit, saying, “It’s very tasty, but it’s not pizza.

I’m sure Chicagoans appreciated his effort.  Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13250-deep-dish-is-the-specialty-at-chicago-brothers-pizzeria.html

 

WORLD FARE: Rosarito steakhouse is a carnivore’s delight

Posted on July 24, 2014 by a

El Nido tropical forest room 2

It was a set of images recalled dimly from the early Jimmy Carter years: A restaurant with rustic décor over-stuffed with miscellaneous antiques, saguaro cactus bodies repurposed as lighting fixtures in one room and a faux-tropical garden in the next; an elegant and courtly proprietor who never quite seemed to smile but nonetheless was supremely welcoming; a restaurant in Rosarito, Mexico, that didn’t exactly seem like a Mexican restaurant but, rather, the best steakhouse this particular carnivorous kid had ever enjoyed.

Read more:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13225-rosarito-steakhouse-is-a-carnivores-delight.html

WORLD FARE: Inconsistencies plague FuAn Garden

Posted on July 16, 2014 by a

Cold Appetizers

The history of Chinese food in this country is rife with mislabeling. The first “Chinese” food to gain popularity on these shores was “chop suey” which, of course, was never truly Chinese. Next came “Mandarin” cuisine that had little to do with the food actually served in the Forbidden City; it was, instead, a repertoire of dishes originating in Fujiian Province in China’s southeast—the source of a major wave of Chinese immigration—presented as that which it was not.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13204-inconsistencies-plague-fuan-garden.html

WORLD FARE: Excellence at Laja in the Valle de Guadalupe

Posted on July 9, 2014 by a

Oven roasted local lamb with vegetable risotto

The tall-poppy syndrome is a social phenomenon—prominent in Australia, New Zealand and Canada—in which people of distinction (“tall poppies”) are cut down for the simple “crime” of elevating themselves above their fellow citizens through their accomplishments. It’s a syndrome that appears to be alive and thriving in the Baja and Southern California food scenes.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13182-excellence-at-laja-in-the-valle-de-guadalupe.html

WORLD FARE: Mariscos Nine Seas is no roach coach

Posted on July 2, 2014 by a

Green ceviche shrimp 2

Mariscos Nine Seas food truck isn’t listed at sdfoodtrucks.com. It’s a curious omission, considering that Nine Seas (3030 Grape St. in South Park) not only offers some of the best Mexican-style seafood in town but is also one of the best local food trucks regardless of style.

For more see:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13162-mariscos-nine-seas-is-no-roach-co

WORLD FARE: Across the Bosphorus — and the tracks — to Lezzet Café

Posted on June 26, 2014 by a

Handmade manti

Lezzet Café sits below the point where Chollas Creek empties into San Diego Bay and Interstate 15 ends in the least fancied stretch of Barrio Logan (3586 Main St.). It’s the endpoint of a journey, if not exactly a destination. It takes an act of will to get there.

For more see:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13140-across-the-bosphorus-and-the-tracks-to-lezzet-café.html

CITY BEAT DRINK ISSUE: Boozin’ with Tracy Borkum

Posted on June 19, 2014 by a

TB 3

Drinks with Tracy Borkum at The Tractor Room in Hillcrest was less about the drinks we ordered and more about what we were not drinking.

For more see:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13128-boozin-with-tracy-bo.html