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WORLD FARE: Las Gueritas – Highly unique street food

Posted on April 29, 2015 by a

Grilled quail at Las Gueritas

Street food stands, stalls and trucks are everywhere in Mexico. It’s fast food of a very different sort. Unlike their stateside counterparts, with corporate design and homogenized menus, in Mexico you find a place like Las Gueritas. (It’s at kilometer marker 77 just southeast of where Highway 3, the road from Ensenada to Tecate, hits Ejido Francisco Zarco in the Valle de Guadalupe.)

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14124-las-gueritas-highly-unique-street-food.html

WORLD FARE: A new spin at Kula Revolving Sushi Bar

Posted on April 22, 2015 by a


here’s something about sushi. Maybe it’s the simplicity: an itamae, a cutting board, a knife and some fish. Perhaps it’s the minimalist aesthetic. It could be the spiritual sense, the connection to tradition, the itamae’s role as chef, tour guide and confidant.

At Kula Revolving Sushi Bar (4609 Convoy St., Suite F), it’s none of that. Instead, it’s fun—lots of fun.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14101-a-new-spin-at-kula-revolving-sushi-bar.html

WORLD FARE: Fine-dining picnic at Deckman’s

Posted on April 15, 2015 by a

Octopus and Pork Belly with Cauliflower Two Ways 2

Javier Plascencia may be the face of BajaMed cuisine and Miguel Angel Guerrero may own the trademark. Benito Molino definitely has the best moustache. But Drew Deckman of Deckman’s en El Mogor (Km. 85.5 Highway 3 Tecate-Ensenada, San Antonio De Las Minas, B.C.) is the only Michelin-starred chef working the BajaMed turf.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14074-fine-dining-picnic-at-deckmans.html

BADASS KOSHER — Jewish Mexico: It’s not an Oxymoron

Posted on April 14, 2015 by a

Lamb shank birria 2

The long list of famed Kosher Mexican dishes is a short one. It’s not because Mexican cuisine is inherently incompatible with the laws of kashrut. Rather, its because, for the most part, what Americans think of as “Mexican” cuisine is really just antijitos (essentially snack or street food) often pairing meat and cheese. Perhaps, more importantly, most American Jews know little about the history of Jews in Mexico.

For more — and for a recipe for Birria of Lamb Shanks – see:  http://www.lchaimmagazine.com/main-story/jewish-mexico-its-not-an-oxymoron/

WORLD FARE: No need for silverware at Harar Ethiopian

Posted on April 8, 2015 by a

Vegetarian combination at Harar

The building housing Harar Ethiopian Restaurant (2432 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights) is barely more than a shack, though a colorful one. It wouldn’t look entirely out of place at the perilous edges of Tijuana, or Addis Ababa. It’s not clear that its large dining room would withstand a heavy rain (not always much of a concern in many parts of Ethiopia).

At the heart of the cuisine is injera, a crepe-like and spongy flatbread that accounts for two thirds of the caloric intake of Ethiopians.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14053-no-need-for-silverware-at-harar-ethiopian.html

NIBBLES BLOG: In the Valle de Guadalupe for a history of carnitas

Posted on April 6, 2015 by a

The Whole Pig 3

In last year’s Food Issue cover story, I wrote my experience killing a pig for food, and the importance of using every last bit of meat on a beast that gives its life for our sustenance. In the December 3, 2014, issue of CityBeat, Joshua Emerson Smith profiled controversial animal rights activist-attorney-politico Bryan Pease in a story about his successful effort to bring a Death for Food event to its knees through a viral www.change.org petition.  The event, originally planned for Suzie’s Farm, never happened. 

But despite the public bruising, organizer Jaime Fritsch was neither chastened nor stopped. On April 10, 2015, he will be hosting an event…

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/blog-1737-in-the-valle-de-guadalupe-for-a-history-of-carnitas.html

WORLD FARE: Best lunch in town, Part III: Do Re Mi House

Posted on April 1, 2015 by a

Bibimbap 2

My lunchtime group used to play “Volume Sweepstakes.” It’s a bang-for-the-buck game. Whoever ordered the greatest bulk of food for the lowest price was the winner. Why seek quantity over quality? When you’ve bit off more than you can chew (late-’80s, 11-percent mortgage) it’s the thing to do.

The old gang would have loved Do Re Mi House (8199 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., Kearny Mesa).

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14028-best-lunch-in-town-part-iii-do-re-mi-house.html

WORLD FARE: Tacos El Yaqui does backyard barbecue Rosarito-style

Posted on March 31, 2015 by a

Carne Asada at Tacos El Yaqui

It used to be my Sunday ritual: wake up early to play 30-and-over Huff-n-Puff soccer—a gringo on a mostly Mexican team—then slowly sidle into the afternoon eating carne asada, drinking Tecates and telling exaggerated accounts of in-game exploits. While the tales should have revolved around age and treachery prevailing over youth and skill, they never did. But the carne asada was really good.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14029-tacos-el-yaqui-does-backyard-barbecue-rosarito-style.html

WORLD FARE: Behind the Red Door

Posted on March 25, 2015 by a

Grilled quail with butternut squash, beets, fennel and meyer lemon germolata

Owner Trish Wattlington describes The Red Door Restaurant (741 West Washington St.) in Mission Hills as “farm-to-table.” It’s easy to see why. Most of the produce comes from Wattlington’s own farm. But what she and chef Kerrie Hills have accomplished at Red Door may be tougher than farm-to-table—they’ve established a wonderful neighborhood restaurant.

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-14007-behind-the-red-door.html

WORLD FARE: Mi Casa Supper Club shortens the distance from Morocco to Mexico

Posted on March 18, 2015 by a

Baked Wild Salmon with Sharmoula, Preserved Lemons, Green Olives & Saffron-Scented Couscous

Geographically, Morocco is a long way from Mexico. It’s halfway around the world, on the edge of Africa, with different religious and cultural traditions. But Rosarito’s Mi Casa Supper Club (Av. Estero 54) is working to bring Morocco closer. 

There are geographical similarities between Baja and Morocco—a Moroccan friend of mine has said that the coast north of Punta San Miguel reminds her of Morocco’s Atlantic coast, where she grew up. And there’s also a surprising culinary compatibility. 

Read more at:  http://www.sdcitybeat.com/sandiego/article-13986-mi-casa-supper-club-shortens-the-distance-from-morocco-to-mexico.html


*          *          *

As one additional note, this week’s San Diego CityBeat article represents the last edited by David Rolland. I owe David a tremendous debt for the opportunity at CityBeat and for all he has taught me — in a number of ways — about how to write for print publication. Thank you.


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